14K vs 18K Gold Chains: Which Should You Choose?

If you're stuck on 14K vs 18K gold for your next chain, here's the short answer: for most guys who wear a chain every day, 14K is the way to go. Go with 18K if you want that deeper, richer yellow and more gold around your neck, and you're OK paying for it and seeing a little more surface wear over the years.

That's the quick version. But there's one thing almost every article on this topic skips, and some get flat wrong: the same chain does NOT weigh the same in 14K and 18K. We'll show you exactly how much heavier the same chain gets, and how much more gold you're really getting, using chains we sell in both karats. If you already know which way you're leaning, you can browse our 14K gold chains and 18K gold chains side by side.

You will learn:

• What the difference between 14K and 18K gold actually is
• Which one holds up better on a chain you wear every day
• Why an 18K chain is heavier, and how much more gold you're really getting
• How much more 18K costs, and when it's worth it
• Whether 14K or 18K gold tarnishes
• Whether you can see the difference between them
• Which karat is better for sensitive skin, and what to know about white gold
• How to read the stamp on your chain
• Which karat to choose, depending on how you live
• Answers to the most common questions

What's the Difference Between 14K and 18K Gold?

14K gold is 58.3% pure gold and 18K gold is 75% pure gold. Pure gold is 24 karat, so 14K is 14 parts gold out of 24, and 18K is 18 parts out of 24. The rest is other metals, usually silver, copper and zinc in yellow gold, mixed in to make the gold harder and to set its color.

Here's a quick side-by-side:

You might be wondering why 14K is stamped 585 when 14 divided by 24 is 58.3%. Good catch. According to the World Gold Council, most manufacturers follow the European practice of making 14K gold slightly over 14 karat, so the stamp reads 585 (58.5%). That's why you'll see both numbers floating around, including on our own blog.

Which Is More Durable for a Chain: 14K or 18K?

For a chain you wear every day, 14K is usually the more forgiving of the two, because more of it is alloy metal, and alloying is what makes gold harder. It tends to shrug off scratches and knocks a little better, which is why we recommend 14K for everyday pendants.

But let's be real: the karat stamp isn't the whole story. The exact alloy recipe and how the chain is made matter just as much, and some 18K alloys actually test harder than some 14K ones. A well-made solid 18K chain will hold up for a lifetime of wear. A hollow chain, in any karat, is far more likely to dent or break.

What actually wears on a chain is the stuff that moves: links rubbing on links, the clasp, and the little ring that connects the clasp to the chain. On a Diamond Cut Franco chain, the sharp facets that give it sparkle slowly soften with wear in any karat, and a little sooner in a softer alloy. That's the trade-off for the color.

Pro Tip: If you work with your hands, hit the gym in your chain, or sleep in it, 14K gives you more room for error. If your chain mostly sees a dress shirt and a nice watch, 18K will be just fine.

Is an 18K Gold Chain Heavier Than a 14K Gold Chain?

Yes. An 18K gold chain weighs about 15% to 20% more than the exact same chain in 14K gold, because 18K gold is denser. Jewelry supplier Stuller lists the specific gravity of 14K yellow gold at 13.07 and 18K yellow gold at 15.58. Same size, same links, more weight.

Here's the part almost nobody tells you. You'll often read that 18K has "about 28% more gold" than 14K. That's true per gram. But since the 18K chain also weighs more, the same chain actually carries about 50% more pure gold.

Don't take our word for it. Here at Proclamation Jewelry, we carry our 4mm Franco (crafted in Italy) in both karats. Here's the same chain at 22 inches:

The 18K version weighs 9 grams more, and carries about 14 more grams of pure gold. With a troy ounce of gold at 31.1 grams, that's almost half an ounce of extra gold in the same chain. You can feel that difference in your hand.

Our 4mm Franco chain, made in both 14K and 18K.

See the 14K version and the 18K version.

Across the 15 chains we offer in both karats in the same style, width and make, the 18K version weighs anywhere from about 7% to 22% more, depending on the style and the width. Listed weights can vary slightly (usually up to about 4%), so always check the exact chain you're looking at.

Why does weight matter so much when you buy a chain? Our founder Nick Miller breaks it down in about a minute:

How Much More Does an 18K Chain Cost, and Is It Worth It?

An 18K gold chain costs more than the same chain in 14K gold mainly because it contains more gold: about half again as much, as you just saw. Every gram of 18K holds more pure gold, and the same chain weighs more in 18K, so the price goes up on both counts.

The price gap grows with the size of the chain. It's smallest on our thinnest chain, the 1.5mm Diamond Cut Franco, and many times bigger on our 5mm Diamond Cut Franco in white gold. Bigger chain, more grams, and every one of those grams is worth more in 18K.

So is it worth it? Here's an easy way to think about it. With 18K, you're not paying a "brand tax" for the number on the stamp; you're paying for real gold you can weigh. If you love the color and you want the most gold for your chain, it's worth it. If you'd rather put that money toward a wider chain or a longer length, 14K gets you more chain for the same budget.

Pro Tip: Compare chains by the gram, not just the price. Every one of our product pages lists the weight for each length, so you can see exactly how much gold you're getting in either karat.

Does 14K Gold Tarnish? What About 18K?

Pure gold doesn't tarnish, but the other metals in the mix can, a little. Since 14K gold has more of those metals, it's slightly more likely to discolor than 18K gold. That's the opposite of what some sites will tell you.

That said, neither one is a tarnish problem in normal wear. A World Gold Council technical paper on gold tarnishing says tarnish shows up mostly in lower karats like 8K and 10K, and only occasionally in 14K and 18K. The usual culprits are sweat, perfume, cologne and other chemicals.

The one thing to really avoid is chlorine. Take your chain off before you get in a pool or a hot tub, because chlorine can attack gold alloys and, over time, cause cracks in both 14K and 18K. To keep it shining, warm water, a little mild dish soap and a soft brush are all you need. Our at-home jewelry cleaning guide walks you through it.

Can You See the Difference Between 14K and 18K Gold?

Side by side, most people can see it: 18K gold is a deeper, warmer yellow, and 14K gold is a little lighter. Worn alone, very few people could tell you which is which.

Where it matters is when two pieces sit right next to each other on your chest. If you wear a pendant, match the karat of your chain to the karat of your pendant, because different karats have slightly different hues. (If you add one of our Signature Clasps to one of our chains, it's cast in the same metal as the chain you choose, unless you ask for a different one.)

If you want the deepest yellow of all, take a look at our 22K gold chains. At 91.7% gold, 22K is the richest color we offer, and also the softest, so it's for the guy who's willing to treat his chain with a little extra care.

Is 14K or 18K Gold Better for Sensitive Skin?

18K yellow gold is the better choice for sensitive skin, because it has less of the other metals mixed in. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends 18-, 22- or 24-karat yellow gold for people with a nickel allergy, and 14K isn't on that list.

The real thing to watch for is nickel, and it's mostly a white gold issue. Yellow gold is usually mixed with silver, copper and zinc, while a lot of white gold is mixed with nickel. If you've got a nickel allergy, go with 18K yellow, or send us a message and ask about the alloy before you buy. The Italian makers we work with don't use nickel.

What About 14K vs 18K White Gold?

14K and 18K white gold chains usually look almost exactly the same, because white gold is usually finished with a thin layer of rhodium, a bright white metal. Without it, white gold has a slightly warm, grayish tint of its own.

Rhodium plating wears down slowly over time, and when it does, the gold's natural warm tone starts to show through. When that happens, a jeweler can re-plate it and it looks brand new again. Our 5mm Diamond Cut Franco comes in both 14K white gold and 18K white gold if you want to compare.

The 5mm Diamond Cut Franco chain in white gold.

Want a white metal that never needs plating? That's platinum. Our platinum chains are naturally white all the way through.

How Do You Know You're Getting What You Paid For?

Check the stamp. A 14K gold chain should be stamped "14K" or "585," and an 18K gold chain "18K" or "750." On our chains, look on the clasp.

US rules back that stamp up. Under the Federal Trade Commission's Jewelry Guides, a seller has to put the karat right in front of the word "gold" (like "14 Karat Gold"), and a hollow chain can never be called "solid." Federal law also only allows a tiny tolerance of 3 parts per thousand (7 if the piece has solder in it).

Pro Tip: Be careful with listings that say "solid hollow gold." That's a contradiction. A solid chain is gold all the way through, and the weight will tell you: a solid 4mm Franco at 22 inches weighs 46 grams in 14K.

So, Which Should You Choose: 14K or 18K?

For most men, 14K gold is the right choice for an everyday chain, and 18K gold is the right choice if color and gold content matter more to you than toughness and price. Here's how it shakes out for different kinds of guys:

• You never take it off, and you train in it: 14K.
• You wear it with a suit and a nice watch, and you want the deepest color: 18K.
• You want a wide, heavy chain (6mm and up) on a budget: 14K. The 18K premium grows with every gram.
• You wear a pendant: match the pendant's karat. For a gold pendant you'll wear daily, we recommend 14K.
• You have sensitive skin or a nickel allergy: 18K yellow gold.
• You want the richest yellow we offer, and you'll baby it: 22K.

Still deciding on width and length? Our guide on how to measure your neck for the perfect chain will help you pin those down.

FAQ

Is an 18K gold chain heavier than a 14K gold chain?

Yes. An 18K gold chain weighs about 15% to 20% more than the identical chain in 14K gold, because 18K is denser. For example, our 4mm Franco at 22 inches weighs 46 grams in 14K and 55 grams in 18K.

Does 14K gold tarnish?

14K gold rarely tarnishes in normal wear, though it can discolor slightly over time. Pure gold never tarnishes; the copper and silver that make up the rest of 14K can react with sweat, perfume and chlorine, which is why 14K is a little more prone to it than 18K.

What do 585 and 750 mean on a gold chain?

585 and 750 are the gold content in parts per thousand. A 585 stamp means 14K gold (58.5% gold), and a 750 stamp means 18K gold (75% gold).

Is 14K or 18K gold better for a chain you wear every day?

14K gold is usually better for a chain you wear every day, because it's often a little harder and more resistant to scratches. 18K gold works for daily wear too, but it usually shows surface wear a bit sooner and costs more.

Can you wear an 18K pendant on a 14K chain?

You can wear an 18K pendant on a 14K chain, but the colors won't match perfectly, because 18K gold is a deeper yellow. For the cleanest look, keep the pendant and the chain in the same karat.

Is 18K gold worth the extra money?

18K gold is worth the extra money if you want the richest color and the most gold, because the same chain in 18K carries about 50% more pure gold than in 14K. If you'd rather get a wider or longer chain for your budget, 14K gold is the better value.

Still Deciding?

If you're stuck between two karats or two widths, shoot us a message and tell us how you'll wear it. We'll help you figure out which chain is right for you. You can browse every chain in our 14K gold chains and 18K gold chains collections at Proclamation Jewelry; each product page lists the weight for every length.